"With Heaven's aid I have conquered for you a huge empire. But my life was too short to achieve the conquest of the world. That task is left for you."

-Genghis Khan

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Mongolian art is the best art of all art

It took two whole days and two full pints of Chinggis Khan beer, but I am finally mentally and physically prepared to report from glorious Mongolia.

The trip over went off without a hitch. While in Beijing I nearly blew the whole operation by boarding a train headed for the center of town, thinking that it would take me between airport terminals. Luckily though, I am cunning like a crippled cat, and I followed the very well marked signs to the free airport shuttle. Crisis averted. Keith: 1. China: nothing.

My first introduction to Mongolian life and culture occurred in the Beijing airport. By the flight gate, the airport TV's were showing Olympic volleyball. The match, China versus Brazil in a battle of the bitterest of rivals. China, jealous of Brazil's mastery of Portuguese, and Brazil, angry that they can't find a good spring roll in Rio de Janeiro. It was very fascinating to watch the contrast between the Mongolians waiting for the flight and the Chinese airport staff. The Mongolians heralded every Chinese miss with enthusiastic cheers and claps. No one boarded the plane until Brazil had taken care of business.

But onto the good stuff: Ulaanbaatar. Where can I begin? This is a most fascinating city. I was greeted at the airport by my coworker Heliuna (Mongolian version of Helen) and her boyfriend, whose name I thought was Patrick, but now I am not so sure. Though driving is done on the right hand street in Mongolia, the Japanese made cars all have the steering wheel on the opposite side. Talk about culture shock!!!

I am living in University housing approximately a 5 minute walk from the center of town. I spent today doing touristy things before I become a disgruntled local. I don't want to be the New Yorker that has never seen the Empire State Building. That might be good enough for a certain New York Hipster, but its not for me. In the morning I saw the Choijin Lama Monastery museum, a collection of 5 monasteries almost in the middle of the town. Seeing the degraded temples standing next to highly modern buildings is a bit depressing, but the art inside the monastery was amazing. It was all highly graphic, depicting man being punished for his sins. It included a mask worn by traditional dancers of the past made of over 6,000 corals and weighing 30 kilograms. Where the Mongolians got the corals from is a mystery to me, but it was still fascinating.

I then went from the old to the very old and on B. Lowd's recommendations checked out the Mongolian Museum of Natural History. Though not quite as expansive as the house that Teddy built, the price was much more reasonable. 2500 Tugrik or just over 2 dollars. The crown jewel of the museum was a full skeleton of a tarbosaurus, a slightly smaller T-Rex. Also, to my amazement the museum held several Moose!!! Apparently Canada and Mongolia have more in common than I once suspected.

I haven't been robbed or assaulted yet, so I'm already doing better than I did after my first day in College. I don't start work for another week, so hopefully I will get a chance to hit up the countryside and ride me some camels. Like George Bush's presidency, this post has been both long and boring.

Stay tuned however, for the Obama of posts is on the horizon. Change is on its way!

3 comments:

Unknown said...

hey dude
if you want to make your posts more obama like , put some photos up there!! played cochrane poker match last night, i won...came down to me and lynden. mike and al out first. then settlers, kaylan won, first time player. she seemed to be following your strategy somehow. cornered the ore market. i really enjoy your blog keithy, keep it up!

DF said...

Dear Genghis "my large empire is overcompensating for something" Cochrane,

Kudos on the plethora of posts which adorn your blog and, as fate would have it, my heart. I have only counted, however, one should-have-been-less-subtle burn on Teo, and ZERO on that rascal a wise man once called Pouloser. Please rectify with haste, for as you'll soon learn the Mongols are nothing if not prompt.

Your's in loving desperately poor landlocked Asian nations,

Duncan "rimando4life" Fitz

Max Winston said...

duncan, i don't think you're giving enough credit to the subtle burn.

"a subtle burn on teo is still a burn on teo nonetheless, and must be greeted with joy and ecstasy"

-Confucius [a long time ago]